Posted in cinema, Crete

Mission Improbable

Last night, we headed to the cinema in Chania, Crete to indulge in the opening night of Mission Impossible. Many of you will know of my penchant for a cinema visit whilst abroad and may have read my previous blog, ‘Tickets, Cinema, Action!’ from October 2022 which was when I last visited this particular cinema. In my opinion, a cinema trip abroad is a cultural pleasure not to be missed.

On this occasion, there were a handful of us waiting patiently on the pavement to purchase tickets whilst the ticket man organised his petty cash in his miniscule booth that would not even accommodate a small swinging cat. An extremely short woman dressed in heels near the kiosk was intermittently looking around and also glancing at her phone. It was unclear whether she was about to buy a ticket and, upon seeing her hearing aids, I had visions of me awkwardly gesticulating in a chaotic way whilst uttering a mumble of broken Greek in order to ask her. However, after a few moments of British-queue etiquette, I settled for a gentle, hesitant tap as a means of checking if she was queuing or not. She was.

She appeared to be waiting for someone and when she had glanced at her phone for a final time before buying her ticket, I noticed her screensaver and did a double take. Either her partner was a perfect look-a-like or it was Tom Cruise. My husband had clocked it too and we both affirmed that it was the famous TC. I was curious: my screensaver had always been of someone or something personal – my family or a favourite place. I had thought (perhaps naively) that this was the norm but this woman had opened my eyes to new screen possibilities.

When she asked for her ticket, which sounded like, ‘ένα Tom Cruise’ (one Tom Cruise) I was somewhat relieved as I had been wondering how I was going to say ‘Mission Impossible’ in Greek. When it was my turn, I sort of copied what I had heard, added a slight roll of the ‘r’, puckered my lips a little more than usual in an attempt to create some sort of Greek intonation and asked for ‘δυο Tom Cruise’. It sounded a little greedy asking for two of him, but my message was understood and tickets were received.

A somewhat empty auditorium

After finding our seats in the auditorium, one which we hadn’t been in before, I headed off to the loo. Turning right, I strolled across the foyer, pushed open the fairly innocuous wooden door to the unisex toilets and then gasped an inaudible gasp as I walked in to an improbable visual feast.

Steps down to Hollywood…

As I took in my surroundings of the overwhelming, brightly lit floor-to-ceiling black and white shiny tiled decor, which was everywhere including in every cubicle, I momentarily felt like a Hollywood star stepping into a scene. This was a stark contrast to the faded seated auditoriums, the paltry roadside ticket booth where the buttons on the antiquated till were still going strong and the simplicity of the snack counter which resembled a ladened market stall without the pizzazz and jazz of a 21st century cinema complex. This toilet decor was something!

I half expected Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers to rhythmically shimmy across the bathroom floor but as they didn’t and no one else was around, I got out my camera eyeing up every nook and cranny. No surface had been left untouched by the glittery black and white splendour. Upon reflection, my reaction may have been a little over the top but I wanted to remember this heavenly bathroom palace. Back in the auditorium, I whispered to my husband, ‘You have to go to the toilet. Wooden door on the right.’

Two and 3/4 hours later, as the credits rolled on the lengthy, action-packed film, I left the cinema full of ideas of how to next redesign my bathroom.

Posted in cinema, Crete

Tickets, cinema, action!

Yesterday evening we went to the cinema here in Crete. The film ‘Mrs Harris goes to Paris’ was light-hearted and enjoyable and hit the spot for an evening’s entertainment. The added thrill (for me at least) was being at the cinema in a different country. Before the film started, I noticed that I felt a certain sense of childish excitement and anticipation. It was at that point that I inwardly acknowledged and self-diagnosed that I have a fondness, appreciation and affinity for going to the cinema when abroad.

I have never intentionally sought out the big screen overseas but rather it has come about by chance. Since ditching full-time employment for intermittent travelling to various European countries, both near and further, we have realised that there are only so many dinners out that a human body can ingest and so an ad-hoc cinema trip has offered an alternative evening’s entertainment. As an English speaker, there is an obvious language advantage as so many films are made in English/American and since visiting a few different European cinemas over the last couple of years, I have happily realised that films are not always dubbed into the local language.

Last night’s film, however, did offer a little problematic amusement in some scenes. As the film title indicates, Paris is the setting for much of the film and therefore it would have been amiss not to include some French. I am guessing that in the UK there would be subtitles for the French, but here in Crete there were already Greek subtitles for the Greek market. Therefore, at odd points during the film, I found myself blunderingly trying to listen to the rapid French, whilst at the same time, read the Greek subtitles to identify key words to help my understanding. The idea was to then patch the French and Greek together to make it fit with the story…all this in split seconds before the scene moved on. Lost in translation springs to mind but I think I got the gist.

A particularly delightful aspect about a cinema trip in a different country is that it gives an added insight into the local culture and, believe me, the innocent buzz of seeing the decor, using the cinema toilet or comparing popcorn habits can be enlightening! Last night, as we were unsure if we were allowed to take in our own metal water canisters, we had left these at home and so had to buy water at the cinema. I smiled as I paid and took my two bottles of ice cold water, pondering on how refreshing the total price of 1€ was compared to the pounds one can knock up in a UK cinema just by glancing at the pick and mix.

Here in Crete, even buying the tickets gave me a thrill. I approached the street-side window of the tiny booth which housed one elderly man and his till. I loved his till! There are two prices for this cinema: 5€ (Mon-Wed) and 7€ (Thurs-Sun). This somewhat old-fashioned till had not just one, but five buttons in a row each labelled with 7€ and another five buttons in a row each labelled with 5€. I’m still pondering on why you would need five different buttons that do the same thing?

In my best Greek, I asked for two tickets for ‘Η κυρία Χάρις πάει στο Παρίσι’ and after an agonisingly slow finger scroll down a piece of paper mounted on a board in front of him, the ticket man finally established which screen we were in. ‘Πέντε’, he said holding up five fingers. As his finger then hovered over the till, it was tantalising to watch, wait and see which of the five buttons labelled 7€ he was going to press. I could hardly contain myself!

After securing the tickets, we had to walk two short paces to the door and give them to another man (also many years into retirement) who tore them to confirm purchase. Then we were inside and it was time to investigate the retro delights of the Greek cinema decor…

A unique design – not an easy approach to this door from the spiral staircase!
Posted in Crete, Greece

Now Ewe See Me, Now Ewe Don’t!

I’d woken up to another glorious day. With a gentle background of sweet-sounding birdsong, the warmth of the Cretan sun offered its daily comforting welcome as I gradually opened my eyes. I carried my morning coffee to the balcony and settled in the hammock with my book. Bliss, I thought, appreciating the time to do nothing else but enjoy my surroundings and indulge in a good read.

After about half an hour, it was time to make the leisurely move from hammock to table for breakfast. Relaxed and without rush, I ambled through to the kitchen and went out the back door to take in the view – the gorgeous mountainous landscape which stood proud in the distance beyond the expanse of the vivid blue of Souda bay.

Souda Bay (Photo by Heather Knibb)

Suddenly I stopped.

“A sheep!” I shouted in panic to my husband.

There standing in front of me and staring at me was a woolly creature and it didn’t look friendly. The reason for my startle was that it should have been on the other side of the fence but it wasn’t, and without that fence as a barrier, I suddenly felt extremely vulnerable.

“Sheep!” I yelled with a greater sense of urgency.

Somehow this particular sheep had got through the fence – a metal fence which was secured on top of the low stone wall acting as a perimeter and thus separating our property from the adjacent field.

Spot the hole between the fence and the wall! (Photo by Heather Knibb)

My immediate thought was that the elastic had gone in my pyjamas and so I knew that I was in fear of tarnishing my upstanding character with our immediate neighbours. Should they look up from their balcony to witness me straddle-walking across the land in an effort to prevent my pyjamas from falling down whilst I confronted a sheep…this was not an image I wanted to share! I also had no footwear on and to walk barefoot through the blanket of wild flowers would not have been sensible given that there were also cacti, thistles and other such pricks, not to mention a possible sighting of a snake or two (not poisonous in Crete, I hasten to add).

The blanket of wild flowers

Clutching the waist of my pyjama trousers, I rushed back into the house to quickly change into more fitting attire and also to grab my trainers. My mind was racing: who do you call to help with a sheep rescue? Should I shout for our neighbours? Should I ring our friends further up the mountain? Should I ring the shepherd? How would I ring the shepherd if I didn’t have his number? Was there a Cretan Sheep Rescue Helpline?

My main concern was that the sheep would end up in the swimming pool and I had visions of my husband and I splashing, heaving and swearing as we tried to haul the waterlogged animal out with its entrails of bedraggled chlorinated wool making it a dead weight beneath our arms. I quickly shut off my thoughts before I had a chance to consider what a dead sheep’s eyes would look like close up, let alone how we would explain to the shepherd in broken Greek that he was now one sheep short in his flock.

Whilst hopping around the room on one foot trying to put on my trainers quicker than was humanly possible and thus not getting either shoe on correctly, I felt like I was in some inane comedy sketch where all I had to do was eventually fall over and I’d get a laugh. My mind was still buzzing with thoughts about how we were going to get the sheep safely back onto the other side of the fence before it rampaged across the patio and ended up head first in the pool. Was there a manual for such a rescue? Too late if there was: I didn’t have that bloody manual and even if I had, I certainly didn’t have time to consult it and now was also not the time to Google ‘How to get rid of an unwanted sheep’.

After just a few minutes, I ran back outside appropriately dressed with a fitted waistband and my feet safely ensconced in my trainers.

“Where’s it gone?” I said stopping abruptly.

“It went back through the fence,” came the reply. My practical husband didn’t even look up as he casually continued to replace the stones on the wall where the gap had been.

“What do you mean, it went back through the fence?” I exclaimed trying to contain my frustration at not having had the chance to gain my Duke of Edinburgh award for sheep rescue. I felt robbed of an adventure!

Moments later, I relaxed and felt a wave of gentle relief as the frantic mind-whirring stress of the last few minutes ebbed away. I was, in truth, thankful to that sheep who had the foresight to make the sensible decision to head back to where it had come from.

It turned out that I didn’t need a manual after all…but I did need some new pyjamas.

Posted in Crete

Vamos a la dentist!

Anyone who knows me well will be aware of my irrational fear of dentists. My siblings may recall my teenage screams echoing down the corridor during check up appointments. In those days, my mum would bundle us into the car and take us on an hour’s drive to Cheltenham to our Swedish dentist who was a friend of a relative. Only in later years did I realise that he reminded me of the child-catcher in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. Hence my hang ups. I mean no offence to said dentist, but as a child it’s easy to make these unintentional and unconscious connections.

*******

Yesterday afternoon I found myself unexpectedly paying a visit to a dentist here in Crete. Driving to the village of Vamos (about 6 km away) the car was registering 42.5 degrees Celsius. To say it was hot was an understatement. Even the air con was having to work harder than usual and the heat wasn’t helping the sick feeling I had in my stomach.

I was experiencing intense pain in a tooth which wasn’t going away. Thankfully, a friend, who lives on the island, came to my rescue. In a flurry of WhatsApp messages, after giving me the number of her dentist, she patiently alleviated my fears, assuring me that, in her experience, he was sympathetic to nervous patients. She even made the appointment for me because I freely admitted to her that I would happily procrastinate when it came to anything dentistry. When she offered to ring him, I was so grateful.

The closer the appointment, the growing concern and whilst driving through the deserted winding country roads, I was discovering that nerves mixed with exceptionally high temperatures produced copious amounts of sweat. Wiping my forehead, repositioning the car aircon vent and taking timely deep breaths whilst trying to recall some of my usual pre-dentist meditation tracks did nothing to stop the sweat dripping down my face.

Upon arrival in Vamos, I reluctantly walked up to the dark green door which stood on an empty street – no one else was out in this heat. It was an unassuming building and if you were just driving past, you probably wouldn’t even have realised that it was a practising dentist. In the relentless Cretan summer sun, a faded sign quietly acknowledged the presence of the business. With some degree of hesitation, I was aware that I was venturing into the unknown to a strange dentist in a foreign country but I knew that I had to overcome my fear in order to eliminate the pain.

I entered the small building and I felt my body involuntarily sigh with a slight sense of relief (yet still tensely clutching muscles) as I walked into a smart reception area which was tastefully decorated with choice pieces of furniture. The dark wood and cool air welcomed calmness, faith and encouraged a positive aura.

The dentist leaned his head around the door from the adjacent room and, with a smile, he welcomed me. I had noted from the sign on the outside door that he had kindly opened his surgery almost an hour earlier than his usual hours to accommodate my emergency. Moments later, I was in ‘the chair’ and, glancing around, I noticed the simplicity of the bare stone walls, the traditionally tiled floor and a beamed high ceiling, all which thoughtfully complemented the modern dentistry equipment which gave the room its purpose. Gentle music was playing, the air conditioning unit was successfully cooling the room and so I bravely settled down as the investigation into my tooth problem began.

‘You need a root canal,’ he explained as he turned to get the injection ready.

‘What? You do it now?’ I asked filled with trepidation mixed with an abundance of sweat trickles. (In the UK, it was usual to have to make another appointment for the actual work to be done which gave further delay – a welcomed delay in my book!)

He smiled and it was the sweetest and calmest of smiles that put me at such ease for which I was truly thankful. I knew I had absolute faith in what he was about to do, but at the same time, I couldn’t quite shake off the image of Steve Martin as the psychopath dentist in Little Shop of Horrors. (Watch it if you haven’t.)

Forty five minutes later, I’d had the prep work for a root canal, been prescribed antibiotics for the abscess and a follow up appointment had been made for a few days time. I felt confident and calm: the immediate, welcoming, no-fuss nature of my Cretan dental experience was refreshing. I left with a smile.

Posted in Crete, Travelling

Let Loose Again

It has been about nine months since I have stepped foot out of the UK and at first it felt a little strange to be on the move. As I tore myself away from the familiarity and comfort of home, which has been the base of my lockdown life, a sense of muted excitement lulled in the air, mixed with a slight reluctance.

It felt like the world had shrunk and that anything beyond my locality was just a little bit scary. It felt like one of those times where it would have been so easy to stay put, so easy to stick with the familiar, so easy to stay at home. I was excited about heading to Crete but not at all thrilled about the journey itself which would take me to public locations where I would have to mix with people in situations that I hadn’t for nine months.

Heading to the airport, I lowered my expectations of what it might be like: check-in, the flight, getting through security, mixing with people, passport control… I imagined long queues, chaos, delays and disorganisation. This mindset was my way to avoid any disheartened disappointment where I knew the world was still figuring out how to deal with often changeable covid-related rules and regulations in public places.

Despite the unsociable early hour of the morning, thankfully we arrived at a relatively quiet airport, which was free from the usual mad rush of passengers starting the school holidays. This gave a promising start. I was hopeful. We immediately joined a not-so-long queue of fellow bleary-eyed passengers, and waited to get our documents checked before heading for a much needed coffee. As the queue shuffled along at a pleasantly steady pace, my spirit was lifted further and I soon realised that the entire airport operation was well organised and prepared. I almost felt guilty for my negativity but I was equally pleased to be proven wrong.

Papers checked, bags dropped, security passed and stomach fuelled, we were aboard the plane within an hour of arriving at Gatwick. And despite my awareness of the close proximity of the passenger in the seat next to me (which felt odd after so much social distancing) the thought that every adult on the plane had had their papers checked and in most cases had been double vaccinated, gave some element of safety.

Landing just a few hours later, I felt the welcoming heat of the Cretan sun and a warm gentle breeze on my face.

It felt good to be let loose once again. ☀️ 🇬🇷

Posted in Greece

A Police Encounter

As 31st December approaches with EU-UK talks dominating the news, I thought I would share this small anecdote…

Three months ago, I paid a visit to a Greek police station. It was a beautiful sunny morning and my husband and I had driven to Vryses, a small town in Crete. We were there to collect our Greek residency cards – so not anything illegal, yet I still felt a little nervous and now, upon reflection, I realise why. Not only had I never ever visited a police station before, but I was also dealing with the Greek law enforcement – a complete unknown.

As I write this, I fondly recall my student days in the late 80s when I had two encounters of a very brief and distant kind with the British law: firstly when marching in Central London against the poll tax and secondly when protesting at Earl’s Court meat market with several other like-minded vegetarian individuals. I’m not even sure they can be considered as police encounters but that is as close as I get, so thankfully my contact with the police has been few and far between. And just to be clear, for the record, I have none.

With the uncertainty of Brexit and possible restrictions on time spent in mainland Europe for UK citizens, Greek residency had fast become a popular topic of discussion and so we had decided to pursue the process to at least get us into the system; nothing would be lost from applying. Having uploaded and sent all the necessary paperwork, we had received an email from the police informing us that our cards were ready and that we should visit the station to collect them.

In the heat of mid-morning, it took a few minutes to work out which building was the actual police station. On the right hand side of the road stood a proud church – clean and charming looking as though it had recently received a fresh coat of paint; similarly, the adjacent building – the town hall – was smartly dressed in cream with terracotta highlights.

The church in Vryses

Opposite these two buildings was a slightly different story. An empty concrete shell of a bungalow stood within a bed of overgrown grass which had long since seen a mower. This unkempt green mop extended to a second, yet inhabited bungalow. This, we soon discovered, was the police station, a building that was hardly visible from the road as it was hidden behind a metal railing fence and leafy trees. Despite the neglected grass, the well-established trees growing in front of the station gave the impression of wholesome heartiness with a twist of love where lemons hung from the branches.

Approaching the bungalow, we saw a dark doorway ahead where we could just make out some evidence of life and so that’s where we headed. I cautiously peered into the dark room and hesitantly took a step over the threshold and smiled with a friendly ‘Καλημερα’. A hand shot straight up from the back of the room to indicate that I should go no further. This hand belonged to a balding, bearded, somewhat fierce-looking man with a solid physique who sat behind his desk directly opposite the door. His expression of apparent disdain was in fine tune with his hand gesture. At least, however, he did have the courtesy to acknowledge my existence since the lady sitting at a desk to my immediate right must have been so busy that she hadn’t even seen me.

‘You come back in one hour (slight pause) because I am busy,’ the policeman ordered sharply in a deep throaty guttural – and possibly cigarette fuelled – voice.

I stood for a moment feeling slightly surprised, awkward and indignant. If I’d been in England, I would have politely requested clarification on the specific time that I should return to ensure that I was actually going to be seen; however, given that I was a foreigner here to complete an application for residency with the joys of Brexit looming on the horizon, I certainly wasn’t going to rock the process by being a disgruntled customer. I sensed that my reaction could easily sway the decision of this somewhat formidable looking man; there was no messing with him. After he had spoken these words, I hesitated, looked around and walked meekly away, whilst inwardly fuming at the apparent lack of manners. However now was not the time to raise a complaint about being told to wait an hour. Now was the time to step away with reserved British politeness.

After a short wander around the town with a caffeine stop at a local cafe, we returned to the police station an hour later as instructed. A few random tourists were now hovering outside the office with an air of uncertainty of what to do, where to look or whether to speak. Clearly the power of the man inside had got to us all and clearly this was his allocated hour of doom where he had to deal with a motley crew of vague and bewildered foreigners, who were expecting residency but who hadn’t yet perhaps mastered the Greek language.

With the pecking order established amongst us, I didn’t have to wait too long to approach the doorway, but I was very quickly stopped again with a hand gesture, this time by a younger policeman who said that no one should enter the office. Perhaps he had been called as back up?

This time, the balding man (who had forgotten to say hello the first time) had transformed into the jolly, friendly giant; he completed our application and issued our residency cards with unexpected ease and efficiency. My nerves had been causing a riot inside as I hoped he wouldn’t notice that the four passport photos, which we had had to submit, didn’t match. Of course he noticed but it didn’t matter, he only needed three photos after all. Perhaps his initial brusque attitude and the strict instructions for the application were a clever ploy to set the fear of something among us?

Handing us our residency cards, I noted, as expected, that they were dated until 31 December 2020. We knew that this was the case from other people who had already applied (and given that the Brexit deal/no deal was still without conclusion), but I felt compelled to risk asking why they were stamped only until the end of this year. The reply from my new law enforcement friend was a deep loud smiling guffaw, ‘Will you still be alive after that? Fingers crossed, see if we are all alive then!’

Head held high and clutching the freshly stamped residency cards, my optimism refused to dwell on his parting words of an uncertain future and I left with a smile of success.

Posted in Greek, language

Greek is the Word

I have always been interested in language and communication, whether it is the origins of words; how children learn to speak and read; learning different languages or how to speak to someone using sign language.

Although I am not multi-lingual like some people I know (and I am in awe of the way they confidently flit between languages), my interest in words and communication led me to focus on languages throughout my education. I think it began when as a family we spent time living in Rome; I was a young child (at primary school) and had friends of different nationalities.

Here, I could also drop in a small mention of my wonderful Swedish grandmother who gave my family a Scandinavian side which perhaps also incited my interest in different cultures and languages. So it is with this smorgasbord of knowledge and experience that I write about my next linguistic adventure…

I have been visiting Crete for the last sixteen years and I have shamefully never got to grips with the language. The distinct Greek alphabet was giving me much grief and it became far more of an uphill slog compared to when I had learnt Spanish or French. Struggling over the years in a half-hearted attempt, I have dabbled with books telling me how to survive on holiday with beginner’s Greek as well as sporadically listening to a Greek language CD in the car: a pitiful attempt to learn key phrases at the same time as driving somewhere.

Soon, I realised I needed to do more and so last year, I began a more dedicated approach to learning Greek. I had heard of the popularity of the Duolingo app and so I decided to try it. I made a commitment to myself that I would do a little each and every day and make necessary notes to help embed my learning. Now, for about a year and a half – 536 days to be precise – I have stuck religiously to my daily lessons.

My Duolingo streak

I knew I had to get my head around the Greek alphabet which I hadn’t done properly before so I made sure that I spent as long as I needed on the very first α, β, γ section in order to embed the basics before moving on. This was obvious, sensible and successful as it gave me the necessary solid grounding for each subsequent unit of work.

My very first page of notes (536 days ago)

During my 536 days of Duolingo, whenever I was in Crete, I was gradually introducing more words into my verbal communication with locals but I soon found that I wasn’t progressing sufficiently to string necessary sentences together in conversation with any acceptable confidence or fluency.

So it is now that I am about to embark on my first group lesson at a local language centre in Armenoi, Crete. And I cannot lie – I am filled with a mix of fear and worry, but also excitement.

Despite being a teacher myself for thirteen years and familiar with the classroom environment, it is a whole different story when you, an adult, are back in class as a student. Now, on the eve of my first ‘official’ lesson, I find myself contemplating insignificant issues such as what to wear; I know that this is really to take my mind off the idea that I am going into a classroom of the, as yet, unknown. I feel like I have been tackling Greek for such a long time and I so desperately want these lessons to be successful and to be the gateway to a reasonable level of fluency.

I hope that the lesson is not too difficult where I sink out of my depth and lose any faith in my language skills. At the same time, I hope that it is not too easy to lead me to feel demoralised that I am not learning or having that conversational practice that I so desperately want, need and seek.

As well as learning Greek, I want to have fun, meet different people and enjoy a new experience on an island that I have been visiting for years so I know I can only gain from these lessons. If I am to progress in this unique language, I have to take the plunge and overcome any nerves.

Pondering further, I cast my mind to the mental preparation that I apply prior to dentist visits, visits which I fear above all fears.

  • I listen to meditation music to calm my mind.
  • I mentally project myself forwards to the hour or so beyond the appointment when it is all over.
  • I clean my teeth thoroughly.

I picture myself walking into the classroom with fresh breath, humming a tranquil tune and contemplating a well-deserved post-lesson lunch. In addition to these ‘dentist’ strategies, I also decide to apply advice that I would give to someone else and which others have given to me – There is no point worrying about something bad that hasn’t happened or may never happen.

I’ll let you know how I get on…

Posted in Greek taverna

A Taverna Tale

We had just finished a delicious meal of beautifully prepared traditional Greek food at a gorgeous taverna located in the heart of a small, peaceful village.

Set slightly to the edge of the taverna was a table with four chairs, where three local men were each enjoying a cold Greek coffee frappe and a cigarette or two or three…The fourth seat was occupied by the waiter (also the taverna owner) who joined his friends for a chat, a drink and a smoke in-between serving customers.

At intermittent stages over the course of the evening, a bell was rung in the kitchen. This prompted a delayed reaction from the waiter/owner where he would slowly rise from his seat, stroll inside, collect the food, serve the customer and then return to his position at the table with his friends to resume the conversation.

Don’t get me wrong, he did an excellent job in his role as front of the house. He was friendly, helpful and attentive and his relaxed demeanour was welcomed with a casual, homely approach that was perfect in this local family taverna.

As our meal came to an end, I pondered on what was going on in the kitchen. In the relentless heat of 30+ degree temperatures, juggling the timing of all the orders, the women were cooking the starters and main courses. Earlier in the day, the women had no doubt prepped vast quantities of vegetables, including countless tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, aubergines and courgettes for the array of mezze dishes. In advance of service, the women would probably have spent hours baking moussaka, boureki and pasticio. And we haven’t yet even considered dessert production. I was exhausted just thinking about the late evening hours that would be spent washing up and cleaning in preparation to begin the whole process again the following day. Factor in bringing up children – that’s a handful.

Who is paying?’ asked the waiter/owner as he brought the bill over to our table. Standing patiently beside the table waiting for our answer, he wore a slightly dishevelled look as if he’d just got up from a relaxed afternoon in front of the TV and had been disturbed by the doorbell.

‘He is,’ I replied indicating to my husband, who happened to have the cash in his wallet having been to the ATM earlier in the day. Another meal, it might be have been me paying: a joint account and together 30 years, it makes little difference who puts the money down at the end of a meal. On this particular evening, it was my husband who happened to have the cash.

In response to my answer, the waiter replied, ‘Ah, it’s always the man. The man, he always pay.’ Musing on the implication of his remark, I smiled outwardly in polite passive agreement, whilst inwardly chuckling at what I perceived to be the irony of his comment. He may have had to momentarily vacate his seat at the table with his friends but there was a hidden hive of activity in the kitchen. 😉